Our overcast arrival in Cologne - the cathedral dominates the skyline

As with everywhere we visited in Germany, there was a suitable stellplatz at which we planned to stay the night – right by the river and within walking distance of the city centre. All for the bargain price of €8 – although it was pay-and-display, so €8 of change was required!

The Koln stellplatz was large and busy - arrivals continued until late evening

We made good time and were parked up at the stellplatz by lunchtime, so had a quick lunch and then walked along the river to the city centre. I’m not a guide book writer or a church enthusiast so I won’t provide an account of the cathedral (Dom) and the many other historic buildings, other than to say that the cathedral, at least, is well worth a visit. Admission is free.

Inside Koln Dom - regardless of your religious views, the engineering and design that went into these old cathedrals is incredible

Koln Dom - Cologne Cathedral

We enjoyed a wander around the city centre, although the shopping district is a bit pointless unless you want to shop in (largely) the same types of shop you’ll find in any major UK city. The older parts of the city are more interesting and rewarding. Food and drink isn’t cheap – but it’s no worse than major UK cities.

Unfortunately, the weather turned against us and we were dripping by the time we got back to the van in the evening. On the positive side, we’d discovered a small supermarket with a cake counter less than 10 minutes away from where we’d parked, so we were provisioned with two large slices of cheesecake for dessert!

Turn right for England, 1km!

The next morning we left bright and early for the final leg up to Rotterdam and the morning after that we disembarked in Hull, marking the end of another great European motorhome trip.

In three weeks we covered 2,300 miles driving around Germany and a little bit of Austria.

Boarding the ferry in Rotterdam - it's still raining (bigger motorhomes get a wider entrance than this!)

The Rhine (Rhein) is a seriously big river that carries a lot of freight - spot the barge and cruise ship, on the far side

On leaving Baden-Baden, our first overnight stop was at Bacharach. This historic walled town is right by the Rhine and is very picturesque. Of more concern for residents, however, might be the fact that between the town’s walls and the Rhine itself, there is a busy railway line and a road. Our stellplatz was just across the road from the railway line and the noise, overnight, from the freight trains was quite surprising. I would hate to live in one of the old houses that is directly adjacent to the line…

The stellplatz at Bacharach is right by the Rhine

Despite this, it was a very pleasant place and evidently very popular with tourists in season – almost all the shops and restaurants were aimed at visitors and it must be very busy in summer.

Bacharach old town

As an indication of how popular the Rhineland is with visitors, there are no free Stellplatz in this area. However, the one we stayed on was right by the Rhine, with great views and all facilities and only cost €6 per night – pretty acceptable, really.

A fairly typical German motorhome service point - toilet waste under the metal flap, waste water down the drain and fresh water from the tap at the top (toilet rinsing water from the tap at the bottom)

We moved up the Rhine a little the next day to the small town of Braubach.

The road runs alongside the river (and the railway lines) for much of the time

The Rhineland is characterised by castles and vineyards such as these

Braubach is a town best explored on foot...

Although the weather had finally turned against us, with heavy rain most of the afternoon, our luck was in. Braubach’s annual wine festival was in full swing and we had a great evening sampling some of the local wines and listening to a live band, who had a certain Eurovision-esque quality to them…

Great wine, great music, great evening!

As a sidenote, our visit to Braubach made us realise that we had grossly underestimated German wines. The best white wines are really something quite special – we now wish we had brought more back home with us…

The castle above Braubach at night...

Famed for its spa baths, architecture, cultured air and famous casino, it’s popular with visitors and was one of the more noticeably expensive places we visited on the trip. That said, there is a Stellplatz on the edge of town that is free, albeit with minimal facilities.

Motorhomes were double-parked in some places at the Baden-Baden stellplatz we used - it was very well located for the town and free

(The only facilities were a Portaloo-type toilet and another, larger, one into which toilet cassettes could be emptied. No waste water or fresh water. In true German fashion, however, both where clean and functioning and neither was abused or vandalised.)

The town is within walking distance of the Stellplatz, which was very popular when we were there – it was jam-packed on both of the two nights we stayed (maximum permitted stay is 48 hours). The couple next to us had come from Aachen to see a concert on Friday night, first thing on Saturday morning they were off home again.

Part of the casino building in Baden-Baden, these people were waiting to enter an art exhibition

What we didn’t realise on the afternoon we arrived in Baden-Baden was that it was German Unity Day the following day (3rd October). Unlike many public holidays in the UK, almost everything was shut, including supermarkets and most shops. The only places open were restaurants, bars, cake shops and various other leisure/entertainment facilities. The result was that the town had a real holiday atmosphere. Family groups were everywhere and the late summer weather meant that it was pleasant just to wonder around.

Baden-Baden has lots of fine architecture...

...some very fine cake shops...

...and a very pleasant town centre

Finally, one thing we saw remains a mystery. In the UK, I would have said that it was a hunt gathering, but in Germany, I have no idea. A group of men and women on horses road into the town centre and stopped outside a hotel, where drinks were provided for them. The leader of the group gave a short speech, following which they all rode off again. Does anyone know what this might have been about? They had gone to the trouble of arranging horn music and drinks and a number of people had gathered to wait for them.

Here’s a photo of the speech and toast taking place, with the musicians in the background:

Any ideas who the red-coated riders might have been?

Lake Constance - it was a little too hazy to see the other side

We decided to stop at Lindau Island, a small island in the north-eastern corner of Lake Constance. Vehicular access to the island isn’t terrifically practical (at least parking isn’t) and we followed the signs for motorhome parking on the mainland. This turned out to be a large car park in with a motorhome service point and overnight parking facilities. Although it looked popular, this was the only place we stopped in Germany where the motorhome facilities and signs had been vandalized (albeit only cosmetically). This, coupled with a fairly high price for overnight parking, persuaded us to park for the afternoon only and not to stay the night.

The walk to Lindau Island from this car park probably took about 20 minutes and is clearly signposted along a footpath from the back of the car park (don’t go back to the main road, it will take you longer). The island itself is attractive but very highly geared towards tourists – notably Brits, judging from what we saw.

The lakeside area is lined with cafes and lake cruise ship operators – departure announcements for these lake cruises are made in both English and German. I did say it was touristy… to be honest, this was a bit much for us and we did not really warm to the place, although it is attractive and the lake is undeniably impressive. It was a bit reminiscent of the towns around Lake Garda, in Italy – if you like one, you’ll probably like the other.

Here are a few more pictures, anyway:

The main square, close to the lake

The quayside area of Lindau Island - it's a proper harbour

Lindau Island waterfront - cruises depart from here

On leaving Lindau Island, we headed towards Singen, a nearby town in which we were planning to spend the night. Unfortunately, the car park with the motorhome parking was being resurfaced – fortunately, there was another one next door which all the motorhomes were using instead, albeit without the facilities available in the closed car park. I did see a couple of Slovakian immigrants camping out in a tent at the back of the car park but there didn’t seem to be any signs of trouble and we had a peaceful night*, along with several other motorhomes.

There’s an excellent bakery across the road from the car park, too – ideal for supplies before you leave in the morning.

*Peaceful if you don’t mind the noise of trains passing by 50 yards away…

Singen - the view from our van across the car park to the railway line

It's probably heaving with people in peak season...

We followed the signs for the “Titisee Rundweg”, which gives you the idea that you will be able to walk the whole way around the lake. In fact, you can walk half-way round. After that, you have to walk the remainder of the way on the road. Nevermind, it was still a pleasant walk and some much-needed exercise.

(Lake) Titisee

Leaving Titisee-Neustadt and its overpriced tourist tat behind, we headed towards Feldberg, the highest mountain in the Black Forest. It isn’t that high, however, and didn’t seem that impressive either, after the Bavarian Alps. So we had a better idea and followed the road to Eisenbach, a Stellplatz from our guide that was up in the mountains and was very pleasant indeed. It also had a proper motorhome service point, which was useful. Electricity was included, but only if you had a long enough cable. We didn’t.

Up in the (small) mountains - a peaceful place for a night (with adjacent bar/cafe)

Castle Neuschwanstein is reputed to have provided the inspiration for Disney’s famous fairy tale castle and when you see it, it does live up to the billing.

Schloss Neuschwanstein - from a distance, hence the haze

Unfortunately, the best view was obscured by scaffolding during our visit:

The shot that graces a thousand postcards - although not with scaffolding.

(The picture above was taken from a bridge up in the woods behind the castle. It’s a well signposted and well trodden route but is nonetheless well worth the walk (if the view appeals). While we were there, an old gentlemen in traditional costume was offering to help visitors by taking photos of them and their loved ones with the castle in the background. He didn’t ask anything in return but had left an empty cigar box for donations at the end of the bridge. I’ve no idea how long he had been up there, but while we were there, two police officers appeared (having walked up the path) and politely but firmly ensured he left the bridge. )

Although the scaffolding was a bit disappointing, we did get a good look at nearby Castle Hohenschwangau, too, which was completely different and also very attractive.

Schloss Hohenschwangau

Parking near the castles is very strictly controlled and is not free. Not all car parks accept motorhomes and there is a separate tariff for vehicles larger than cars, like minibuses and motorhomes. However, charging is automated (I think weight sensors might be involved) and our small motorhome was only charged the same as a car.

The walk up to the castles is easy enough for anyone with a normal level of fitness, but bus and horse-drawn buggy services are also available if preferred. Admission to the inside of the castles costs money but visitors can walk around the outsides quite freely.

We stayed two nights in this area, both of them at the excellent Fussen Mobil motorhome parking facility. Fussen is the nearest sizeable town to the two castles and has two large motorhome parking facilities, all of which are signposted as you drive into the town. (There is only one set of signposts, as both sites are on the same street!) Considering how popular the area is, the charge of €11.60 per night was not unreasonable – especially as all facilities and a toilet/shower block were available and the town centre was within 15 minutes walk.

We were already flirting with the Austrian border, so it was an easy decision, given the fine weather, to divert into Austria and spend a day traversing the Grossglockner Pass. There are a few things worth noting about this road:

• It’s a toll road – a one-day ticket for a car (the rate we were charged for our small motorhome) was €28
• It’s 48km long – there are higher and steeper passes, but few so long
• It’s closed from the end of October to May
• You should plan on following the side road to the Pasterze Glacier – it’s worth the extra driving

Grossglockner is Austria’s highest mountain, at 3,798m. The pass itself reaches a height of 2,504m, which is fairly high for a public road, although I have driven higher in Switzerland.

Ascending the Grossglockner Pass

Whichever way you look, the views are great!

The pass is a fantastic road, both in terms of road quality and spectacular views. It has no fewer than 36 hairpins, each of which has a height marker so you can see just how quickly you are climbing (and descending). It’s not difficult to drive and is nice and wide, but it is very long and very steep, so make sure your brakes are in good order. Remember to use plenty of engine braking, too, or you will end up with smoking brakes… You’ll probably want to stop several times, anyway, as the views are amazing and the driver won’t be able to fully appreciate them without stopping.

This is actually the top of the pass, but this shot isn't a good angle!

Going down...

The Pasterze Glacier

Once we had (eventually) left the pass, we used the “Europa” part of our Reisemobil Bordatlas to find a campsite/stellplatz for the night in Austria. We ended up in Kals am Grossglockner, a small mountain village with spectacular views. Just outside the village there is a new campsite with great facilities and a stellplatz parking area just outside it. The stellplatz was just a parking area – not much more than a layby – so we opted for the full campsite experience, for which we were charged €15. It was worth every penny – shower and toilet facilities that would put some hotels to shame plus a laundry room that enabled us to do all of our washing.

Our campsite at Kals - note the view, it was just as good in all directions

Austrian notes:

We were only in Austria for a couple of days, but did make a few observations that may be useful:

• Diesel is much cheaper than Germany
• Remember that you need a vignette for Austrian motorways – most garages seem to sell them. The minimum is 10 days, which cost €7 in October 2009. If your motorhome is over 3.5 tonnes, you will need a GO Box instead – see here for details

The area is also inextricably linked to Germany’s Nazi era – after taking power in 1933, Hitler (who already owned a holiday home in the region), established a southern headquarters in the Obersalzberg. Much of this was destroyed by Allied bombing at the end of WWII, but Hitler’s mountain retreat, the Eagle’s Nest (or Kehlsteinhaus) remains and is, we found, a major tourist attraction.

The Eagle's Nest, or Kehlsteinhaus, high on Mt. Kehlstein

Our goal was to enjoy the scenery and do some walking – at minimum cost. This turned out to be surprisingly easy. After taking a trip into Berchtesgaden – an attractive but rather touristy and expensive town – we headed out to the main Berchtesgaden National Park car park, from which the Königsee lake and various mountains can be accessed.

After parking and paying the €4 daily fee, we followed a signed footpath towards the Königsee. This huge lake is nestled between various hills and mountains and is both stunningly beautiful and wonderfully peaceful. When we reached the main viewing point for the lake (pictured below), we stopped, as did everyone else. I think it’s the first time that I’ve ever been outdoors and heard people lower their voices to a murmur so as not to spoil the atmosphere. I’ve been in churches where there was more noise – really.

This picture doesn't do justice to the beauty and tranquility of the Konigsee

Traditional boat houses at the foot of the Konigsee

The next day, we returned to the same car park with slightly grander ambitions. The previous day’s reconaissance had revealed a cable car, the Jennerbahn, that ran from the base of the park up to a peak of 1,874m. We paid the ticket price and boarded a cable car for the ride to the top. Our plan was to have lunch at the very top and then walk down to the Mittelstation – the halfway house that is common on these long cable car runs. From there, we would ride the cable car back down to the bottom again, giving us about 2.5 hours of walking in total.

Here are some pictures from the ride up and the walk down:

Snow blowers seen on the cable car ride up - snow isn't left to chance in modern ski resorts!

It's a long way down...

The restaurant at the top of the Jennerbahn, viewed from the footpath going down

An overnight stop was necessary and this took place at Selb, in a car park behind the sports centre/ice hockey rink. There weren’t any facilities but it was free and very quiet. We left Selb early and pressed on – our first destination was Dachau Concentration Camp, which is very close to Munich.

Guard tower, Dachau Concentration Camp

I had long wanted to visit one of the major camps and was looking forward to it (if that is the right way of describing it…). The camp is well-signposted and is, inevitably, a major tourist draw. There is a small charge to park in the sizeable car park but admission to the camp is free. When we arrived, mid-morning, the car park already had coaches in as well as cars from half a dozen other European countries. We were the only Brits, though.

The main feature of the camp is the large compound where prisoners lived. Within this, most of the accommodation huts have been destroyed (their foundations remain) but individual examples have been preserved. Also preserved is the camp’s prison building, were prisoners were kept in solitary confinement and interrogated.

The main camp building, which once contained the administration offices, has been converted into a sizeable museum.

Parade area with accommodation hut in background

The museum is organised chronologically and is deeply sobering, even if you are already familiar with the history of the camps, as I was. The museum’s narrative starts in 1933, when Dachau was the first and only camp. As well as tracing the camp’s expansion and the growing scale of the atrocities that occurred, the political background to the events is explained, too. This makes it possible to understand how the Nazi regime gained so much power, so quickly, and is very educational.

A surprising number of photographs exist of the camp in use, and these are used to powerful effect throughout. The result is that you are gradually drawn into the horror of the camps and reach a point where you feel you must have seen the worst – only to find that you have not. I admit that it was a relief to eventually emerge into the sunshine and fresh air.

On leaving Dachau, we headed even further south to the Berchtesgaden National Park. Our Stellplatz for the night was in the parking area of an off season ski resort, Götschen, just above Bischofswiesen. It felt great to be in the alps again and a very quiet, dark night ensued. We were planning to spend several days in the area and this was the ideal base as everything was within 20 minutes drive. No facilities, however – there are various other Stellplatz in the area that do offer facilities and charge for them. These must be used as needed, interchanged with free nights here. Note that some Stellplatz in skiing areas operate different services (and charges) in summer and winter. Check the guide for details.

The Stellplatz at Gotschenalm is surprisingly popular, even out of season

Our main purpose in visiting Meissen was to visit the Porcelain factory. By coincidence, Meissen’s Ford dealership (which also handles vans and can take coachbuilt motorhomes), is located almost next door to the porcelain works. Shortly after 9am, we fired up the van and made our way to Ford Fahrzeug-Neumann. In my best schoolboy German, I explained that we were on holiday in Germany and had broken down. On ascertaining we were driving a Ford Transit, the friendly lady in reception immediately found a mechanic to look at the van for us. A short time and some diagnostics later, we were watching him price up a replacement alternator on the workshop computer. Ouch.

Ford Fahrzeug-Neumann in Meissen - recommended

We didn’t have a lot of choice in the matter so gave them the go ahead to fit a new alternator and left the van with them for the rest of the day. First, we visited the Meissen factory and museum – admission was €8.50 each, which included the factory tour and admission to the well-stocked museum.

One of the best things about driving in Germany is that everything is well signposted

The factory tour was actually a series of demonstrations – you don’t get anywhere near the actual factory – but it was interesting and well-organised, with multi-lingual audio guides included in the price. The museum seemed to be well stocked with both old and new Meissen – it was a pleasure to walk around. Here are a few photos of some of the exhibits:

Meissen porcelain in the factory museum

Would you dare to use it?

As it turned out, the Ford dealer hadn’t been able to get the new alternator delivered the same day, but they were happy for us to sleep in the van on their forecourt overnight, and even left their very clean toilets unlocked for our use (although we had our own). Somehow I can’t see that happening to motorhomers in the UK…

We whiled away a little more of the day in Meissen and in due course the new alternator arrived and was fitted – we were back on the road. It’s worth noting that we had to pay in cash – no cards were accepted. I believe this may be common in Germany and it is certainly worth bearing in mind. I’d also like to say that the staff at Ford Fahrzeug-Neumann in Meissen were professional, friendly and helpful throughout – we couldn’t have asked for more.

Here are a few more shots of Meissen, which we explored thoroughly over two days and which is a thoroughly attractive and pleasant town, well worth a visit:

The palace and cathedral dominate Meissen's skyline

The heart of the old town is dominated by cafes and tourist shops but retains its charm

Old buildings are beautifully restored and new buildings blend in seamlessly - Meissen's old town